There are train journeys, and then there are train journeys. The Train des Merveilles—the "Train of Wonders"—is decidedly the latter.
Departing from Nice, this regional line climbs from the palm-lined Mediterranean coast into the rugged heart of the Alpes‑Maritimes. Over the course of two hours and just 100 kilometers, it ascends more than 1,000 meters, threading through 81 tunnels and across dizzying viaducts, before arriving at Tende, a medieval village on the doorstep of Mercantour National Park.
It's not fast. It's not flashy. But it is, quietly, one of the most spectacular rail journeys in Europe.
If you're planning to ride the Train des Merveilles this season—whether for a day trip from Nice or as the start of a longer hike into the mountains—here's what you need to know about the route, the stops, and what to bring along.
The Route: What to Expect
The journey begins at Nice‑Ville station. Palm trees and belle époque facades slide past the windows, and within minutes, the coastline disappears. The train follows three mountain valleys—the Paillon, the Bévéra, and the Roya—each offering a different texture of landscape.
The engineering alone is worth the ticket. The line, inaugurated in 1928 after decades of construction, uses three spectacular spiral tunnels to gain altitude without steep gradients. You pass through 44 kilometers of tunnels in total, crossing 407 bridges along the way. At the Scarassouï viaduct, the train seems to float above the gorge.
But the real wonder is how the scenery shifts. Green hills give way to deep gorges. Pine forests thin into granite rock faces. And then, suddenly, a hilltop village appears—clinging to the mountainside as if it has always been there.
Six Villages, Six Stops
The Nice–Tende line stops at six villages along the way. Each has its own character, and each is worth considering for a longer stay.
Sospel is the first stop, recognizable by its pastel buildings and the old Pont‑Vieux bridge. It's a gentle introduction to the hinterland—cafés, narrow lanes, and a baroque cathedral that feels centuries away from the Riviera's crowds.
Breil‑sur‑Roya follows, home to the Écomusée du Haut Pays et des Transports, a small museum that tells the story of the railway line. If you're interested in the technical side of this engineering marvel, this is the stop for you. In summer, the village also serves as a base for kayaking and canyoning on the Roya river.
Saorge is perhaps the most dramatic. The station is at Fontan, a 20‑minute walk below the village proper, and the trail up is a balcony carved into the rock face. Once you arrive, Saorge reveals itself as one of France's most beautiful hilltop villages, with a Franciscan monastery and baroque church that seem to watch over the valley below.
La Brigue lies further along, at the gateway to Mercantour National Park. Its cobbled streets and Piedmontese architecture feel distinctly Italian, and the Notre‑Dame des Fontaines chapel, just outside the village, is known for its remarkable frescoes.
Tende is the final stop for most travelers. At around 800 meters altitude, this fortified medieval village serves as the base for exploring the Vallée des Merveilles—the Valley of Wonders—a protected area with over 40,0n0 Bronze Age rock engravings scattered across its alpine landscape.
When to Go
The Train des Merveilles operates year‑round, but the experience changes with the seasons.
From June through September, the train runs daily, and the 9:32 AM departure from Nice includes an onboard guide (in French and English) who explains the history, the engineering, and the landscape as you travel.
In spring and autumn, service is limited to weekends and public holidays—but the valleys are quieter, the light is softer, and the chestnut forests are turning.
Winter brings a different kind of magic. The train continues to run, and on weekends from January to March, a combined train‑and‑shuttle service connects to Castérino, a small resort at the gateway to Mercantour, for snowshoeing and Nordic skiing. The contrast—palm trees in Nice, snow in the mountains, all in the same morning—is one of the route's quiet thrills.
What to Pack for the Day
A journey on the Train des Merveilles is unhurried. You'll want to be comfortable, prepared for changing conditions, and able to carry everything without thinking about it.
Here's a practical checklist for the day:
Layers. The temperature can drop noticeably as the train climbs. A lightweight jacket or fleece is useful even in summer.
Water and snacks. There are cafés in the villages, but the train itself has limited services. Bringing your own water and a few snacks makes the journey more relaxed.
A phone or camera. You'll want both. The views demand photos. And your phone will be useful for checking train schedules or finding your way around the villages.
A power bank. If you're using your phone for navigation, photos, and tickets, battery life can become a concern by the afternoon.
Hiking shoes (if you plan to walk). Several of the stops—Saorge in particular, but also the trails around Tende—involve walking on uneven terrain. Comfortable, sturdy footwear makes a real difference.
A small umbrella or rain shell. Mountain weather is unpredictable. A compact layer of protection is never wasted.
A packable day bag. If you're spending multiple days in the region, you'll want a larger bag for your main luggage and a smaller one for day trips. The Train des Merveilles is ideal for slow travel—overnight stays in Tende or La Brigue are well worth considering.
A Thought on Carrying It All
There's something about a journey like this that rewards thoughtful packing. You don't need much for a day on the train—but what you do bring should be easy to reach, comfortable to carry, and ready for whatever the day brings.
A well‑organized backpack makes the difference between rummaging and relaxing. Between standing and sitting comfortably. Between worrying about your gear and forgetting it entirely.
If you're looking for a bag that balances capacity with comfort—something that can handle a day trip from Nice just as easily as a multi‑night stay in the Mercantour—the Aegis Fortress 38L is worth considering. At just 0.75 kg, it's lightweight for its size. Its 38‑liter capacity and multiple compartments keep a laptop, layers, snacks, and a water bottle each in their own place. And its water‑resistant fabric offers quiet reassurance when mountain weather does what mountain weather does best.
But that's just one option. The right bag for your journey is the one that fits your rhythm—and that you don't have to think about once you've put it on.
A Final Note
The Train des Merveilles doesn't shout. It doesn't need to. It simply does what it has always done: connect the coast to the mountains, the familiar to the unexpected, the everyday to the extraordinary.
Riding it is a reminder that some journeys are not about getting somewhere quickly. They're about paying attention. Watching the valleys unfold. Noticing how the light changes. Letting the train do the work.
If you find yourself on the Côte d'Azur this year, take a morning. Board the 9:32 from Nice. Find a seat by the window. And let the wonders come to you.
Safe travels.
— The MARK RYDEN Team
